Vintage nightwear: a history

There is something blasé about nightwear today. It is considered to be comfort wear, a pair of women’s boxers and that t-shirt you got free on holiday. Often, the nightwear sections of vintage are left sleeping on their hangers. After all, who cares what you wear when nobody is around? This was never the point of nightwear. Gowns and robes were designed to be intimate, luxurious and feminine attire and a symbol of rest, relaxation and seduction. Helen Varley takes a look at nightwear throughout the decades.

Reclining on a chez-long, fire blazing with F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby somehow feels far sexier when wearing a floor length Fifties silk chemise than a manky old t-shirt, comfortable though it might be. At least this was the Victorian way of thinking. Before the Victorian period, nightwear was non-existent and people generally slept in their daytime undergarments. When gowns were first introduced in the 19th century, only the prosperous could afford them and to have nightwear was considered a luxury. As well as being a sign of wealth, nightgowns had a practical purpose, keeping warm on winter nights, so nightgowns were ankle-length with long sleeves. They were beautiful, simple in design and brilliant at creating a serene and spiritual atmosphere, as revealed in many costume dramas, from Cranford to Pride and Prejudice.

In fact, Victorian nightgowns are largely the inspiration for peignoir sets, a type of nightwear traditionally worn on a ladies wedding night. Derived from the French term peigner meaning ‘to comb the hair’ these sets consist of a gown and sheer robe, usually made of chiffon. Finding a genuine Victorian night gown may be a bit tricky, so the next best thing is to look for vintage inspired pieces. Online is the best way to go, as here you can buy crystal-white Victorian inspired nightgowns that are new. As the Victorians valued hygiene, a vintage queen should do the same. Check out Victorian Classics for a good selection. They may not be cheap – especially with shipping costs – but they were regarded by the Victorians as a luxury item and investing in a good quality nightgown will mean it will last for many years.

At the turn of the century, nightwear began to reflect the dress styles of the day. Out went the ‘less is more’ approach and in came the negligees, short and light and often hybrids of fashionable ‘flapper’ type dresses, but for the bedroom. But, while the trend for fitted, silky and lacy night gowns was taking off, the first and second World Wars broke out and the idea of using supplies for the production of unnecessary luxury items was deemed un-resourceful. The war effort also meant that the fabrics were simply unavailable and women returned to wearing whatever clothes they had spare for sleeping in.

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