Make-up guide: how to re-create a Forties look
February 28, 2010 by Lena
Creating a vintage face is a definite art form, and getting just the right look takes practice and care. Amanda Newsum from Jitterbug Doll is often asked about her favorite make-up products and application tips and is sharing her best on how to re-create a Forties look with us.
Over the years I have refined my tastes, and as I delved farther into the vintage lifestyle, I have worked very hard at perfecting the styles of the Forties to Fifties. There is something so elegant about perfectly sculpted brows and shockingly red lips, and the nuances to be found in the different looks are quite fun to explore.
The first red lipstick I bought was Revlon’s Cherries in the Snow, a color released in the Fifties and still available today. I was 19 and had recently discovered Marilyn Monroe when I came across a book of photos in a used bookstore. I thought she was so pretty, and something about her curled hair and innocent wide eyes sparked a new interest in style in me. Since that fateful purchase, I have bought many a tube of red lipstick and amassed a large collection of other products as well!
Anyway, I’ve rambled on a bit, so let me give you a guide to creating a Forties face:
Brows
Period-perfect brows are neat and defined, providing the frame for your vintage face. The Forties brow is softly arched and generally of medium thickness, a change from the dramatically pencil-thin line favored in the Thirties, and not the thicker, more pointed shape of the Fifties. A favorite brow pencil of mine is Maybelline’s Expert Eyes Eye and Brow Pencil, which is available in several shades at a bargain price. Apply in soft, short strokes to mimic the natural hairs. I generally soften the penciled line by going over it with a bit of shadow on a damp angle brush.
Eye Shadow
The Forties eye is subtle and clean, but this does mean you must go bare to get the look. The sculpted shape is enhanced by applying a cream, nude, or beige shade to the lid, with a deep shade in the crease to accentuate the natural hollow. I often reach for Clinique Champagne, Ben Nye Vanilla, or MAC Yogurt or Vapour for the lid color, and Clinique Rum Spice, MAC Malt, Haux, or Woodwinked, or Ben Nye Shell for the crease. Soft grays and darker browns work well too. There is a great deal of shades that fall into this category, so you will be sure to find the right color for you!
Eye Liner
Liner was soft and understated in this era, as compared to the heavier cat or doe eye in vogue during the Fifties. I like to use Joe Blasco Ultamatte, a dry cream cake liner, in the shade Eddie Leonard (a dark brown with a slight reddish tinge), and I apply it using a small filbert brush. Cake liners are also a good choice. These dry cakes are applied using a damp brush. Gel liners, such as MAC Fluidline, are also popular, as they can be easier to apply than a liquid or water-activated cake liner. Pencils and liquids can also be used, a favorite liquid of mine is L’Oreal Lineur Intense.
« Previous page 1 2 3» Next page
Wonderful article Amanda – thanks so much. I’m wearing Cherries in the Snow today and I’m sure its a pink? Yes, its definitely a pink.
Thanks for the comment, Lisa! I’m glad you enjoyed the article
Cherries in the Snow is a pink-based red; I think it was originally more of a true red but it’s still a lovely shade today
I have an old advertisement for Cherries in the Snow – which I pinched out of a magazine from 1950 – framed and mounted in my hallway. The model looks like a cross between Elizabeth Taylor and Ava Gardner and the copy is priceless. My favourite bit “who else but Revlon understands you as you really are … a trifle shy, but oh-so-warm … and just a little reckless, deep inside … as strange and unexpected as cherries in the show.”
Ah, mine is exactly she shade of MAC’s girl about town but it might be a slightly different shade here, I know they do that with some brands. Which is quite maddening. For a mate pink based red I love Max Factor’s “Flame”
I’m making a list of your recommendations. Have been an admirer of yours for some time and would love to see more similar articles and how to’s from you. xxx
Oh, mine’s not that shade at all–how strange! It’s even listed under “Reds” on the Revlon site, but Girl About Town is definitely pink so there must be a big difference between the shade they sell here and overseas.
They are sadly phasing out Max Factor here, which is such a shame.
I definitely have more articles in the works, so stay tuned!
I’m intrigued by the Lip Ink, since I like being able to eat/drink/make-out without worrying about leaving bold red lip-prints everywhere! I poked around their site and did a bit of research looking for reviews + testimonials. Can you tell us a bit more about your feelings of the Lip-Ink? Maybe link a picture of you wearing the product, and what shade. How long do you find it lasts? Do you use it more often or less often than other lip products — i.e., is it worth the cost? it’s a tad expensive!)
Thanks so much!
Just saw your comment, Ruby!
I love Lip Ink–I’ve used it for about two years and it’s the best indelible lip color out there, IMHO
It doesn’t feel tacky/lacquered like the Cover Girl Outlast/MAC Pro Longwear variety–this type of lip color always feels so heavy and coated to me, and tends to wear off/peel away unevenly. It does sting a bit when you first apply it, but you get used to that. I do use the Lip Shine to moisturize and add shine, but plain old rubbing alcohol removes it in a snap so I skip their remover.
A lot of the reviews on places like Makeup Alley are unfavorable, but I’ve not really experienced any of negatives (and have turned on several friends to this lipstick—they love it too!)
I’m actually wearing my favorite shade Red in most of my photos–it “reads” like a traditional lipstick, without the transfer worry! Here’s a good photo for you:
http://api.ning.com/files/6Xq9GAx7DlTLHebjpT8LX*8H5TsCy20CGpdAcdWc*CzZlMu9YR2E9rnknwtfNn5ZAWD09Li*KY07-OyIGfx9I70AUzB-amBL/DSC_7862.jpg
The photo link I posted is a bit unwieldy–try this instead:
http://tinyurl.com/LipInkRed