Kings of Vintage: British street style – skinheads
Skins now wrapped up against the chill wind of Thatcherism in Harrington jackets (burgundy or black cutting the sharpest dash) accompanied by orange-tab Levis with three-inch turn ups (all the better to expose inky-black DMs rising inexorably up the calf), form-fitting Fred Perry shirts, V-neck sweaters and whip-slender braces. Hair ranged from the near-bald ‘shadow’ of the number one crop to smoothies and suedes. Skinhead girls (or ‘Skinbirds’) now sported the classic feather (or ‘Chelsea’) cut – short on the crown, with fringes at the sides and front; the crown might even be shaved, with feathery bangs flopping over the forehead.
Many Skinbirds had a tendency to bleach their remaining follicles to within an inch of their lives – and they never let their roots grow out. Ever. Denim minis were worn with itchy black fishnet tights and spotless cherry red DMs (or white socks with shoes). Snug Fred Perry T-shirts and Ben Sherman check shirts were often a real boon for those Skinbirds blessed in the mammary department.
Overall, the look became more extreme (tattoos were widespread), but it was no less sharp, although suits were never seen on Skin revivalists. But the rot set in, and Skinheads began to splinter spectacularly; into ‘Trojans’ (originals), Nazis, SHARPs (Skinheads Against Racial Prejudice), ‘plastic’ Skins (i.e. High Street pretenders), Two-Tone fans and gay fetishists. For a subculture that had originally stressed roots, pride and respect, that some Skins could now be seen Mod-bashing on Brighton seafront or in Bethnal Green underpasses showed how withered those roots had become.
Like all the subcultures of the post-punk era, Skins still exist, albeit in vastly diminished numbers. Many 21st century Skins are often a combination of the best elements; their politics do not interfere with their love of ska, Fred Perry, or Crazy-Coloured feather cuts. It’s possibly the most accessible vintage style for the smart-but-not-square
Category: 1960s, 1970s, Fashion, Vintage news, Vintage Style Icons
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Very interesting article !
I liked it. Nicely done!
i thought this was a great contribution, and a nice alternative to some of the other articles on this site. and as someone who grew up in east ldn, its a really insightful comparisson to the skins of today who you wouldnt necesarily relate to a ‘vintage’ fashion site and who frankly could do with the good publicity!
Excellent article, as someone who was around during this period I can vouch for most of it. I remember some of the top skins going for the city gent look, crombie with silk hanky, bowler hat and cane-I think Suggs from Madness tried to emulate it in the early ’80s but I must hail the great line in this piece ‘Snug Fred Perry T shirts…….were often a real boon for those skinbirds blessed in the mammary department’ ……Genius
brill article keep up the good work !
great article keep up the good work !
Really love this article, always great to view vintage from a different perspective!
Excellent history, esp. for those of us in the US where the Skinhead culture has been totally misrepresented. Plus, a great look at real working-class style. Thanx!
Not to my liking at all. Unless you represent the Two-Tone Skinheads…this is nothing but fascist propaganda. The girl in the first picture is wearing white laces on her Doc’s…in many circles a symbol of white pride. The two boys on the next page are represented in the ‘unifrom of the NF. A rascist and neo-nazi group. This is terrible that you would even consider this as an article worth publication. If this is the direction you are taking please take me off your email list. I lived in London during the rise of these neo-fascists and will not tolerate their presence in something I hold so sacrosanct.
Good to see an accurate and well-detailed article that focuses not on sensational aspects of the movement but on the stylistic elements of traditional skinheads.
In relation to the comments above (Bix Belanger) – the images in this article are very typical of traditional skinheads (ie those who are influenced by the early movement, roots reggae, northern soul and rude boy culture). As a traditional, non-racist (SHARP) skinhead I myself wear white laces and braces – the colour associations you refer to are outdated and largely a myth. If you look at further photography by Gavin Wilson you will see a number of similar images of trads, both black and white dressed like the two young males pictured.
Contemporary skinheads distance themselves from the aforementioned ‘neo-fascists’ which soured the scene in the 90s. I only hope people are gradually able to make a distinction between these two very different social groups and appreciate the subculture’s unique style and culture.
@Bix Belanger – Nonsense! I was a 1960s skinhead in SE London. I was an anarchist and anti-fascist, and had run-ins with the NF. Some of my skinhead mates were black, and most of my white skinhead mates couldn’t have given a James Clark Ross about politics! (Yeah, but don’t let the facts spoil a good prejudice, right?)
no mention of scooters/scooterist scene. also, a former article mentioned the rockers, but there was no mention here of the famous riffs with the mods/skins? otherwise, a very solid article! it’s too bad there aren’t more articles on the forefront akin to this one.